Features

10 things you should know about... Algiers

Wednesday, 01 July 2009

1 Getting there and around
All major international airlines fly to Houari Boumedienne International Airport (algiersairport.free.fr), 18km southeast of Algiers. National carrier Air Algérie (www.airalgerie.dz) also flies to more than 25 domestic destinations, including Oran, Constantine, Bejaia, Tamanrasset, Annaba, Tlemcen, Djanet and more. Visas are required for all visitors. The 40-minute taxi ride to or from the airport will cost about 700 dinars (US $10).

2 Accommodation
For modern comfort, head for familiar chains: Sheraton (tel: +213 21 377777, www.starwoodhotels.com); Mercure (tel: +213 21/245970, H3173@accor.com) or Sofitel (tel: +213 21/685210, h1540@sofitel.com). But for a beautiful insight into the city’s faded grandeur, plump for the five-star Al Djazair Hotel (24 Ave Souidani Boudjemaa, tel: +213 21 591 010, www.hoteleldjazair.dz), with its stunning botanical gardens and mosaic fountains. Rooms might need refurbishing, but you might be lucky enough to meet the ghosts of Eisenhower and Churchill, who stayed in the hotel during WW2.

3 Places of interest
The 90m-high "Monument of the Martyrs" landmark in Riadh El Feth pays tribute to the victims of the national liberation war, while the 19th-century church Notre Dame d’Afrique overlooks the sea and is accessible by cable car. It’s known for its statue of the Virgin depicted as a black woman. Half an hour outside the city is the stunning and ancient city of Tipasa (http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/193), founded by the Phoenicians and inhabited by the Romans until the 6th century AD.

4 The Casbah
The old city known as the Casbah (http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/565) is built on a hill overlooking the Mediterranean. Meander the winding alleys of the High and Low Casbah and discover the Ketchaoua, Djedid and El Kebir mosques dating back to the 17th century.

5 Cultural heritage
Since 10,000 BC, Algeria has been successively inhabited by Berbers, Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Turks and French, making it a beautiful and complex country. The Berbers (Kabyls, Chaouia and Tuaregs) make up a third of the population and call themselves "Imazighen" (free men). They have maintained a strong ethnic consciousness and a determination to preserve their distinctive cultural identity and language.

6 Best meal
The best meals in Algiers are always enjoyed at home, but Auberge du Moulin (24 rue Abane Ramdane, Cheraga, tel: +213 21 36 10 73/74), an old windmill, is a fine bet. For beautifully grilled fresh fish caught fresh, head to one of the outdoor restaurants in the picturesque harbour of La Madrague, 20km west of Algiers.

7 Weekend away
With 1,200km of coastline, mountains and desert, Algeria offers many travel options. Visit Bejaia or Tizi Ouzou for a feel of Berber country, or seek out the rock paintings of the Tahat Mountains; the World Heritage site of Al Qal’a of Beni Hammad, the ancient capital of the Hamadid empire, in the mountains near Bechara; and desert excursions in the Hoggar. Try tour operator ONAT (Didouche Mourad Street, tel: +213 21 744 448).

8 Algiers by night
For a feel of typical Algerian night entertainment, venture into one of the local "cabarets", or join the young modern Algerian at the Havana Lounge at the Hilton (Pins Maritimes, El Mohammadia, tel: 213 21 219 696). The Pacha Club, in Hotel Al Djezair, is also popular.

9 Language
Arabic is the official language but most Algerians also speak French; English is not widely spoken. Hundreds of French words have been integrated and "arabised", making the Algerian dialect quite distinct from any other Arabic dialect.
Sabah l Kheir good morning
Washrak? how are you?
Labes, hamdulilah fine, thank you
Ween? where is...?
Saha thank you / bless you

10 Compulsory reading
C’est à Algiers by well-know Kabyle author and comic Fellag will give you the best insight into the small and large tragedies of modern Algeria. With his widely acclaimed humour, Fellag tells us the stories of Mourad fighting with the political police, Kamel and his best friend, Samia and her secret lover, Hocine, who dreams about America.

Compiled by Wendy Fleury